fencing doublet progress

[anotheranon]

I've been working on this steadily for just over a month, and finally have something new to photograph:

Both from my cell camera, so not as detailed as could be, but:



Most of the outer layer is finished. I ended up cutting it much larger than necessary and I may still pare down the back a bit. I ended up cutting the lining sleeves much longer than needed, so the green outer sleeves actually reflect something closer to the correct length. They'll need to be slimmed down a LOT to fit!



One of my few concessions to vanity (I have no great plans to embellish this because any trim would get knocked off), the sleeves are completely attached but I still included the shoulder wing. It was a pill to get both sides to match, so the fact that I did means I'm pretty pleased :)

What I'd do differently next time - I'd have done the torso and sleeves separately and attached the sleeves afterwards, as what I ended up doing here by treating the outside layer as an "overjacket" for the inside corded layer made it difficult to see what I was doing to line up shoulder seams.

Next: slim down the outer sleeves to match the lining and baste both together.

Prior post/pix of the corded inside.

Crossposted to dressdiaries.

Comments

[anotheranon.livejournal.com]

the wing is completely finished on all sides, and then sewn directly onto the doublet (whipped on, generally) about 1/8" (or less) above the sleeve seam -- it is NOT put into the seam with the sleeve.

No, this WASN'T obvious in Arnold - I'll have to take a closer look! Thanks for the heads up!

As it happens, I attached the wings by inserting them between the armseye and sleeve - it seemed obvious to me that this MUST have been how it was done then, but your explanation sounds so much easier! Thank you for the heads up!

[jdulac.livejournal.com]

if you think about it, the period method drastically reduces bulk in the armscye. It has bugged me for a long time that the "insert the wing" approach makes such a bulky mess. I conclude that is always a clue that you are doing it wrong... :) But don't feel bad -- it is what everybody does. Because of modern experience with clothes & sewing, we think it has to be that way.

[anotheranon.livejournal.com]

I'm sure I'll be making something with shoulder wings again, and I'm definitely remembering this for next time. Live and learn :)