fencing doublet progress

[anotheranon]

I've been working on this steadily for just over a month, and finally have something new to photograph:

Both from my cell camera, so not as detailed as could be, but:



Most of the outer layer is finished. I ended up cutting it much larger than necessary and I may still pare down the back a bit. I ended up cutting the lining sleeves much longer than needed, so the green outer sleeves actually reflect something closer to the correct length. They'll need to be slimmed down a LOT to fit!



One of my few concessions to vanity (I have no great plans to embellish this because any trim would get knocked off), the sleeves are completely attached but I still included the shoulder wing. It was a pill to get both sides to match, so the fact that I did means I'm pretty pleased :)

What I'd do differently next time - I'd have done the torso and sleeves separately and attached the sleeves afterwards, as what I ended up doing here by treating the outside layer as an "overjacket" for the inside corded layer made it difficult to see what I was doing to line up shoulder seams.

Next: slim down the outer sleeves to match the lining and baste both together.

Prior post/pix of the corded inside.

Crossposted to dressdiaries.

Comments

[ellid.livejournal.com]

Very nice! Have you seen the one at the Metropolitan Museum in New York? It's quilted leather and in remarkably good condition.

[anotheranon.livejournal.com]

Funny you should mention that - no, I have not seen it "in person", but just as you sent that I was looking at some pictures of it online (http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Costumes.htm)! It is gorgeous, and amazing that it has survived in such excellent shape!

[ellid.livejournal.com]

Here's another example, from around 1550:

http://pintura.aut.org/SearchProducto?Produnum=27066

[jdulac.livejournal.com]

One of my few concessions to vanity (I have no great plans to embellish this because any trim would get knocked off), the sleeves are completely attached but I still included the shoulder wing.

that's actually normal. Men's sleeves do not generally lace on, that is not typical. The sleeve is sewn to the armhole, but... here's the trick that took us years to figure out, even tho' the evidence was under our noses... the wing is completely finished on all sides, and then sewn directly onto the doublet (whipped on, generally) about 1/8" (or less) above the sleeve seam -- it is NOT put into the seam with the sleeve. The double rows of trim that you generally find hide the spot where the wings are attached. This is spelled out very clearly on the Verney gown in Arnold. Once you realize it, you will see it on other garments in that book as well. I can't tell what it is that you actually did, tho', so forgive me if I'm stating something obvious to you. It just took us so long to realize it...

doublet looks very nice!

[anotheranon.livejournal.com]

the wing is completely finished on all sides, and then sewn directly onto the doublet (whipped on, generally) about 1/8" (or less) above the sleeve seam -- it is NOT put into the seam with the sleeve.

No, this WASN'T obvious in Arnold - I'll have to take a closer look! Thanks for the heads up!

As it happens, I attached the wings by inserting them between the armseye and sleeve - it seemed obvious to me that this MUST have been how it was done then, but your explanation sounds so much easier! Thank you for the heads up!

[seamstrix.livejournal.com]

The doublet looks good. I love the color and the texture of the fabric. I'm looking forward to better detail shots in the future so I can really gush over it.

[jdulac.livejournal.com]

if you think about it, the period method drastically reduces bulk in the armscye. It has bugged me for a long time that the "insert the wing" approach makes such a bulky mess. I conclude that is always a clue that you are doing it wrong... :) But don't feel bad -- it is what everybody does. Because of modern experience with clothes & sewing, we think it has to be that way.

[anotheranon.livejournal.com]

I'm sure I'll be making something with shoulder wings again, and I'm definitely remembering this for next time. Live and learn :)

[anotheranon.livejournal.com]

Thank you!

[anotheranon.livejournal.com]

Thank you for another example :) Seems the sleeves are definitely sewn in on this one, no apparent wings either. I love the quilted pattern!

[ellid.livejournal.com]

Isn't it great? I think the interlaced areas were trapunto and the background was flat quilted...one of these days I'm going to make one myself just to see if it works.