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Jul. 16th, 2006
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size problems
Jul. 16th, 2006 03:43 pmSo, I'm a D cup.
Please, no lecherous or envious comments from the peanut gallery because that's not why I mention this in a public forum. No, it's because said dimensions, aesthetically pleasing or not, are a pill to dress around.
Most designers and vendors make women's tops assuming a set proportion between bust and waist measurements that winds up usually accomodating a B cup. This ratio is still assumed as sizes get larger (even though weight gain = cup size gain for many women).
All well and good, if one is actually a B cup. If you're not, you're stuck with having something either fit across the chest and bag everywhere else, or fit everywhere else and either flatten, strain, or gap across the bust. A bit of spandex in knit tops alleviates some of this, but I haven't worn a button-down in over a year because none of them fit anymore (one of the hazards of going off Depo).
Do not even start me about jackets.
FWIW, most commercial pattern makers assume similar measurements, so when making something for myself I either need to consider styles that "work" with my measurements, or add the extra step of draping and/or fitting to make it work. This takes time which I don't always have or want to spend - sometimes you just want to cut the fabric and get results!
Sadly, this limits the number of cute/fashionable tops I can wear to those with a bit of spandex. I don't particularly care for unfitted tops because my broad shoulders + chest = A. Non looks like a linebacker with spindly legs. Generally speaking this isn't the aesthetic impact I wish to make :/ This would admittedly likely bother me less if I 1) hadn't become accustomed to being able to buy off the rack in smaller days, and 2) didn't have a number of work shirts I can no longer wear for this reason.
So what to do?
Happily, some vendors (like Bravissimo.com) are starting to make shirts to accomodate a variety of bust/waist ratios. So are some pattern companies. I don't see this as a widespread trend, as creating made-to-order items for a three-dimensional shape that is so widely variable isn't economically feasible, but it's a nice start.
Meanwhile, I need to learn to alter purchased items for best advantage. Knit tops are easier because of stretch, but harder because they have fewer seams that can be altered. Tailored will be tricky, if it's possible at all (shoulder yokes, augh!)
Please, no lecherous or envious comments from the peanut gallery because that's not why I mention this in a public forum. No, it's because said dimensions, aesthetically pleasing or not, are a pill to dress around.
Most designers and vendors make women's tops assuming a set proportion between bust and waist measurements that winds up usually accomodating a B cup. This ratio is still assumed as sizes get larger (even though weight gain = cup size gain for many women).
All well and good, if one is actually a B cup. If you're not, you're stuck with having something either fit across the chest and bag everywhere else, or fit everywhere else and either flatten, strain, or gap across the bust. A bit of spandex in knit tops alleviates some of this, but I haven't worn a button-down in over a year because none of them fit anymore (one of the hazards of going off Depo).
Do not even start me about jackets.
FWIW, most commercial pattern makers assume similar measurements, so when making something for myself I either need to consider styles that "work" with my measurements, or add the extra step of draping and/or fitting to make it work. This takes time which I don't always have or want to spend - sometimes you just want to cut the fabric and get results!
Sadly, this limits the number of cute/fashionable tops I can wear to those with a bit of spandex. I don't particularly care for unfitted tops because my broad shoulders + chest = A. Non looks like a linebacker with spindly legs. Generally speaking this isn't the aesthetic impact I wish to make :/ This would admittedly likely bother me less if I 1) hadn't become accustomed to being able to buy off the rack in smaller days, and 2) didn't have a number of work shirts I can no longer wear for this reason.
So what to do?
Happily, some vendors (like Bravissimo.com) are starting to make shirts to accomodate a variety of bust/waist ratios. So are some pattern companies. I don't see this as a widespread trend, as creating made-to-order items for a three-dimensional shape that is so widely variable isn't economically feasible, but it's a nice start.
Meanwhile, I need to learn to alter purchased items for best advantage. Knit tops are easier because of stretch, but harder because they have fewer seams that can be altered. Tailored will be tricky, if it's possible at all (shoulder yokes, augh!)
