measure twice, cut once
Jul. 13th, 2013 06:17 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
Finally finished the Issey Miyake skirt, Vogue 1541 (top row center) and learned a lot not only about sizing up Miyakes, but sizing up in general:
1) Measure - and measure again. When I compared the pattern measurements to my own, I failed to take into account 1) seam allowances, and 2) the width of the side bands.
As such, my first run was too big - which for a standard skirt might not be a problem, but for the skirt front with its funky self-facings it wasn't a case of simply taking width out of the sides (and there's no center front seam so I couldn't shrink it that way either).
I tried taking off the facings, slimming down the sides, and adding them back, but it still didn't take it in enough. Thank goodness I bought extra yardage!
2) Make a gorram muslin. Seriously. I was uncharacteristically overconfident in my abilities because the 1541 skirt is fairly simple (for a Miyake, at least) and I foolishly thought adding a couple of inches, how hard can it be... shyeah :P See again: this project would have been dead in the water if I'd not had extra fabric.
3) Let's hear it for chrome-edge tailor's points! Purchased at the recommendation of a reenactor friend, I now wear these on a lanyard around my neck so they're always on hand to cut thread and fabric. My teeth (my usual thread-snipping method) are grateful.
Results: I have a new skirt for work/play that may nearly match the jacket I made years ago that still fits - incredibly the button style were still in manufacture as well.
And I've discovered that at least some of the Miyake patterns can be sized up, but VERY CAREFULLY.
1) Measure - and measure again. When I compared the pattern measurements to my own, I failed to take into account 1) seam allowances, and 2) the width of the side bands.
As such, my first run was too big - which for a standard skirt might not be a problem, but for the skirt front with its funky self-facings it wasn't a case of simply taking width out of the sides (and there's no center front seam so I couldn't shrink it that way either).
I tried taking off the facings, slimming down the sides, and adding them back, but it still didn't take it in enough. Thank goodness I bought extra yardage!
2) Make a gorram muslin. Seriously. I was uncharacteristically overconfident in my abilities because the 1541 skirt is fairly simple (for a Miyake, at least) and I foolishly thought adding a couple of inches, how hard can it be... shyeah :P See again: this project would have been dead in the water if I'd not had extra fabric.
3) Let's hear it for chrome-edge tailor's points! Purchased at the recommendation of a reenactor friend, I now wear these on a lanyard around my neck so they're always on hand to cut thread and fabric. My teeth (my usual thread-snipping method) are grateful.
Results: I have a new skirt for work/play that may nearly match the jacket I made years ago that still fits - incredibly the button style were still in manufacture as well.
And I've discovered that at least some of the Miyake patterns can be sized up, but VERY CAREFULLY.
no subject
Date: 2013-07-14 01:52 pm (UTC)