full bust adjustment, stage 1
Oct. 10th, 2011 12:56 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
anotheranonI've been crawling along, but making progress on the vest full bust adjustment. I'm pretty pleased with the results!
I did make a few changes from the book's instructions: I did not use the tissue pattern pieces for draping, I cut out muslin copies. I also didn't fill in the split areas with tissue, but with masking tape.
These are the main pattern pieces out of the envelope. The vest is shoulder princess seamed, giving multiple opportunities to edit.
This is afterwards. The Palmer/Pletsch method is so OBVIOUS in some ways that I'm ashamed I didn't think of it before! In the past I've tried to accommodate my bust by cutting the size that matches my full bust measurement and taking in the side seams and armhole to fit everywhere else, which has never worked adequately and usually created more fit problems, usually too wide of a neckline or too tight armholes.
What P/P does is use your high bust measurement (right under your arms - here's an illustration of the full bust vs. high bust) and allow for the bust by splitting the other pattern pieces in the middle, which retains the neckline width and doesn't flatten the arm openings! You can see the lines on the pattern where I cut it open and filled it in.
Next step: redraft the pieces with these adjustments and do a full mock up.
I did make a few changes from the book's instructions: I did not use the tissue pattern pieces for draping, I cut out muslin copies. I also didn't fill in the split areas with tissue, but with masking tape.
These are the main pattern pieces out of the envelope. The vest is shoulder princess seamed, giving multiple opportunities to edit.
This is afterwards. The Palmer/Pletsch method is so OBVIOUS in some ways that I'm ashamed I didn't think of it before! In the past I've tried to accommodate my bust by cutting the size that matches my full bust measurement and taking in the side seams and armhole to fit everywhere else, which has never worked adequately and usually created more fit problems, usually too wide of a neckline or too tight armholes.
What P/P does is use your high bust measurement (right under your arms - here's an illustration of the full bust vs. high bust) and allow for the bust by splitting the other pattern pieces in the middle, which retains the neckline width and doesn't flatten the arm openings! You can see the lines on the pattern where I cut it open and filled it in.
Next step: redraft the pieces with these adjustments and do a full mock up.
