buh - ?

Jul. 31st, 2013 06:12 pm
anotheranon: (davelister)
[personal profile] anotheranon
So I'm taking my stab at Dame Vivienne's drape shirt.

The pattern prints out on standard printer paper, which means you have to tape the thing together yourself. Finding the parts that added up to the sleeve, yoke, and pocket were easy:

Drape shirt

but the rest of the pieces look almost exactly alike because the body is just one big square.

Getting the body piece is easy: the comments mention the measurements as 2x1.6m (roughly 63x79"), I can place the arm holes where they fit roughly 11" below the top edge easily. I'm still a bit baffled how the yoke and sleeves go together, or how the the thing ends up closing at the side if the armholes are centered.

So, another Miyake-esque adventure.

Date: 2013-07-31 10:32 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jlsjlsjls.livejournal.com
I remember going back and forth between the pattern schematics and the finished shirt photos quite a few times before it suddenly clicked for me how it went together (no guarantee it clicked correctly, though) ... if you need another head to bounce assembly off of, give me a shout and we can see if what I figured out comes back to me.

I do miss sewing ... hoping that work will calm enough someday that I can spend time with my fabric stash again instead of overtime (having the three most experienced people in one's department all retire within six months of each other in the year of the killer projects makes things a little TOO interesting)

Date: 2013-07-31 11:00 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] anotheranon.livejournal.com
Once I start assembly I may well take you up on that!

I hear you about not having enough time - the curse of the world is that its all so interesting yet there are only 24 hours in a day - it's impossible to do it all!

Date: 2013-07-31 11:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jlsjlsjls.livejournal.com
It was fun figuring out that hood a while back so I look forward to another how-the-heck-does-that-go-together? assembly challenge.

On the plus side, we who are fascinated by everything and wish we could do it all shall never suffer from boredom. Except in work meetings. ;-)

Date: 2013-07-31 11:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jlsjlsjls.livejournal.com
Aha! Followed your link and looked at the photos/pattern layout once again and I remember what I figured out about that yoke! (it's referred to as "shoulder panel" in the directions) Its two side edges are sewn into the back edges of the armholes along with the sleeves (hence the "sandwich" instruction) so that it ends up on the inside of the shirt rather than the outside and fits snugly across your back above your shoulder blades (it's just visible peeking out of the back neck in the upper right photo ... the bottom photo is a rear view with the "collar" pulled down to display the inner yoke)

Now whether that's actually correct is a whole 'nother thing. But it's the only way I can see it working.

Date: 2013-08-03 04:21 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] anotheranon.livejournal.com
I've spent most of the morning working up a muslin for this thing, and I think I've figured out a couple of things, but not a couple of others:

1) the "A" marking on the armhole is the top

2) the yoke does indeed go on the inside

3) However, the yoke does not go across the shoulders on me, rather it goes above them, creating an uncomfortable/ugly ruching across the back.

I think what I may do for the real deal is just insert the sleeves separately and then place the yoke where it looks good on me (ignoring the markings) and sew it on using Elizabethan seams (http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/theelizabethanseam.html) (this cheat has relieved me of a lot of having to shove awkward piles of fabric under the sewing machine foot, and gives me a lot more control).

Date: 2013-08-04 03:08 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jlsjlsjls.livejournal.com
Doesn't surprise me that you don't like the yoke positioning ... just looking at where it is in the photos makes my shoulders twitch (I hate having snug fit just there). Good luck with the repositioning!

tangentially

Date: 2013-07-31 11:01 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] anotheranon.livejournal.com
Just reread my post. Wow.. wow... holy repetition Batman! Either I'm as distracted as I think I am or my vocabulary seriously needs an upgrade...

Re: tangentially

Date: 2013-07-31 11:13 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jlsjlsjls.livejournal.com
LOL! I never noticed. But really, people do most of their talking within a comfortable range of familiar and repeated words and phrases, so to write casual stuff that way actually reads as comfortable and natural to me. It's only in formal writing that one is required to have a coronary over using the same word/phrase twice. ;p

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